Sundsvall: Uncovering the Secrets of Sweden's Stone City

Sundsvall is a city that reveals its secrets slowly. My plan was to stay for work, but those two years turned into a deep dive into the heart of Norrland. Situated dramatically between two mountains and the coast, Sundsvall is known throughout Sweden by one name: Stenstaden, The Stone City.

This isn't just a nickname. After a catastrophic fire leveled the timber-built town in 1888, a decision was made to rebuild the entire city center in stone. The result is an architectural marvel—a grand, almost continental European city center that feels strikingly different from any other in Sweden. Its history is tied to the wealth of the timber boom, and you can feel that ambition in its stately buildings.

This guide is a collection of insights from my time as a resident, not just a visitor. I want to share the city's true character, from navigating its unique layout to embracing the dramatic seasons and finding the best spots loved by locals.

Over my years here, I saw friends and family arrive in every way possible. Getting to Sundsvall is straightforward, as it serves as a major hub for the region.

• By Train: This was my preferred method for trips to Stockholm. Arriving at Sundsvall Centralstation places you right at the edge of the city center. The journey on SJ or Vy trains is comfortable and offers a beautiful transition into the vast landscapes of Norrland.
• By Plane: For quicker journeys, Sundsvall Timrå Airport (SDL) offers connections, primarily with Stockholm. It's a small, efficient airport, and from there, airport coaches (Flygbussarna) or taxis will get you into the city in about 20-30 minutes.
• By Car: Driving offers the most flexibility, especially if you plan to explore the surrounding Västernorrland region. The city is conveniently located right on the E4, Sweden's main north-south highway.

Once you're in Sundsvall, moving around is simple, especially in the central areas.

• Walking: The best way to experience Stenstaden is on foot. The grid layout makes it impossible to get lost, and walking allows you to truly appreciate the intricate details of the stone facades and grand avenues.
• City Buses (Din Tur): To venture beyond the center—to the Birsta shopping complex, residential areas, or the base of the mountains—the local buses run by Din Tur are your best bet. They are reliable and cover the entire area well.
• Embrace the Hills! While Stenstaden is perfectly flat, remember that Sundsvall is a city built between mountains. A walk up towards Norra or Södra Berget is a rewarding workout with incredible views as your prize!

I highly recommend downloading the Din Tur app. It was my go-to for real-time schedules and buying tickets directly on my phone, making bus travel completely hassle-free.

To truly understand Sundsvall, you need to explore these key areas that define its character.

• Stenstaden (The Stone City): This is the soul of Sundsvall. Spend time wandering aimlessly through its grid of streets. It feels like an open-air museum. The main square, Stora Torget, is the city's living room, bustling with life. It's here you'll find the best shopping, restaurants, and the magnificent Hirsch Palace.
• Norra Berget (The Northern Mountain): My absolute favorite escape within the city. It's a fantastic recreation area offering breathtaking panoramic views over Sundsvall and the bay. It features an open-air museum (Friluftsmuseum) with historic buildings, a small zoo with Nordic animals, and numerous walking trails. The view from the lookout tower is a must-see.
• Södra Berget (The Southern Mountain): The city's other guardian mountain, Södra Berget is a hub for activity. With extensive hiking and running trails in the summer and a popular ski slope in the winter, it's a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. The hotel at the top also has a spa with incredible views.

Like any proper Swedish city, Sundsvall runs on fika, and its food scene offers a mix of local comfort and diverse flavors.

Fika Culture: Stenstaden is dotted with charming cafés (konditorier). Finding your personal favorite is part of the Sundsvall experience. Grabbing a coffee and a pastry and watching the world go by from a café on the main pedestrian street is a perfect way to spend an hour.

Eating Out: You'll find everything from classic Swedish fare to international cuisine. For a fantastic budget-friendly and hearty lunch, look for "Dagens Rätt" (Dish of the Day) signs outside restaurants on weekdays. While the infamous surströmming (fermented herring) is a regional specialty, you're more likely to enjoy delicious local fish or game on menus.

My two years in Sundsvall taught me that it’s not one city, but four. The seasons are intense and completely redefine the experience.

• Summer (June-August): The city bursts with life under the near-endless daylight. Outdoor terraces are full, the parks are lush green, and the air is filled with energy. This is the ideal time for sightseeing and enjoying nature.
• Autumn (September-October): The mountains erupt in a blaze of gold, red, and orange. The air is crisp and clean, and the city is quieter. A truly beautiful and atmospheric time for hiking.
• Winter (November-March): Magical and dramatic. Sundsvall gets a thick blanket of snow, and the short, dark days are illuminated by streetlights and cozy candles in windows. It's a time for winter sports on Södra Berget and enjoying the indoors. Be prepared for the cold!
• Spring (April-May): The slow awakening. You can feel the city's anticipation as the snow melts and the first signs of green return. The days get rapidly longer, bringing a sense of renewal and optimism.

One of the pleasant surprises for visitors is that Sundsvall offers fantastic value compared to Sweden's major cities.

• Accommodation: You'll find hotel prices in the city center to be significantly more affordable than in Stockholm or Gothenburg.
• Transport: A day pass on the Din Tur buses is reasonably priced and a great investment if you plan to explore beyond Stenstaden.
• Food: Leveraging "Dagens Rätt" for lunch is my top tip for saving money. Dining out in the evenings is also generally less expensive than in larger cities.
• Activities: So much of Sundsvall's charm is free! Walking through Stenstaden, hiking on the mountains, and enjoying the parks won't cost you a krona.

Here are a few things I learned that will make your trip smoother:

• Go Cashless: Like the rest of Sweden, Sundsvall is a cashless society. Your debit or credit card will work everywhere.
• Pack for Norrland Weather: This is not Southern Sweden. Layers are your best friend, even in summer when evenings can be cool. In winter, thermal underlayers, a warm hat, gloves, and waterproof boots are non-negotiable. And in summer, mosquito repellent is a must for any forest walks!
• Language: Most people in service roles speak English, but you'll find it less universal than in Stockholm. A friendly "Hej" (Hello) and "Tack" (Thank you) will be warmly received.
• Embrace the Light/Darkness: If visiting in summer, consider an eye mask to help you sleep through the bright nights. In winter, embrace the cozy darkness and enjoy the candlelit atmosphere.

Sundsvall is a great launchpad for exploring the beautiful Västernorrland region.

• Härnösand: A charming coastal town to the north with a lovely archipelago feel.
• The High Coast (Höga Kusten): You're on the doorstep of this UNESCO World Heritage site. While it deserves a trip of its own, you can take a longer day trip to experience the southern parts of this dramatic, rising coastline.

Your ideal location depends on your travel style:

• For the Historian & Urban Explorer (Stenstaden): Stay in the city center to be surrounded by the stunning architecture, with shops and restaurants at your fingertips. Most hotels are here.
• For the Nature Lover & Athlete (Södra Berget): Choose the hotel on the southern mountain for immediate access to hiking, running, or ski trails and spectacular views.
• For the Transit-Focused Traveler (Near Central Station): Perfect if you have an early train or plan many regional day trips by public transport.

My two years in Sundsvall left a lasting impression. It’s a city of resilience, beauty, and quiet confidence. It lacks the tourist crowds of the capital but offers something arguably more authentic: a real slice of Norrland life, where grand urban architecture lives in harmony with wild, accessible nature.

If you're looking to experience a different side of Sweden, to appreciate a unique piece of history, and to feel the powerful rhythm of the seasons, I wholeheartedly recommend a visit. Sundsvall is a city with a strong identity and a story worth discovering.

Ready to plan your trip? These links will help:

• 🔗 Din Tur (Local & Regional Public Transport)
• 🔗 SJ (National Rail)
• 🔗 Sundsvall Timrå Airport (SDL)