Öland by Car: A July Road Trip to Sweden's Sunny (and Windy!) Island

Last July (2024), our family took a road trip south from Stockholm to Sweden's second-largest island, Öland. Unlike Gotland, which requires a ferry, Öland is easily accessible by car thanks to the impressive Öland Bridge connecting it to the mainland city of Kalmar. We spent 4 nights on the island, renting a cottage via Airbnb, and exploring its distinct landscapes, history, and coastal charm.

Öland is a long, narrow island in the Baltic Sea, famous for its unique nature, particularly the vast, flat limestone plain known as Stora Alvaret (a UNESCO World Heritage site), its many ancient remains (ring forts, burial grounds), and its iconic lighthouses at both the northern and southern tips. It's a hugely popular summer destination for Swedes, known for its beaches, sunny weather, and unfortunately, as we discovered, its wind! The island's landscape is also dotted with characteristic windmills, which we saw everywhere.

In this article, I'll share our experience of driving to and staying on Öland, the places we visited (including our favorite, Borgholm), the unexpected reality of the July wind, and offer some tips for new visitors to Sweden considering an Öland trip.

Our journey to Öland in July 2024 was a classic Swedish summer road trip. We drove the entire way from Stockholm with the car, which took us around 6.5 hours. The drive is straightforward, primarily on the E4 highway south towards Kalmar.

The highlight of the journey, of course, is crossing the Öland Bridge. It's a significant landmark and offers great views as you make your way over the water to the island. The bridge itself is free of charge – there is no toll to cross it.

While we drove, visitors can also reach Kalmar by train or bus from major Swedish cities and then take a local bus over the bridge to Öland. Kalmar also has a small airport (Kalmar Öland Airport, KLR) with some domestic connections, from which you could rent a car or take local transport.

Once on Öland, having our car was absolutely essential for exploring. The island is over 130 kilometers long from north to south, and attractions are spread out along its length and across its width (though it's quite narrow).

We spent a lot of time driving, covering significant distances to get from our cottage to various beaches, historical sites, and lighthouses at either end of the island. Distances between places like Långe Erik in the north and Långe Jan in the south are considerable, requiring dedicated driving time.

We particularly enjoyed the nice views while driving near the sea. Öland has coastal roads that offer beautiful vistas of the Baltic, farmland, and those ever-present windmills. Simply driving along the island's varied landscapes was a key part of our experience.

Public transport on Öland consists of buses run by Kalmar Länstrafik. These connect major towns and areas, but they are not as frequent or comprehensive as needed for flexible sightseeing, especially if you want to visit multiple points of interest or less accessible nature spots in a single day. Cycling is popular in certain areas, particularly the flatter south, but covering long distances purely by bike would be challenging for most visitors on a shorter trip.

For our 4-night stay, we rented a cottage through Airbnb. This is a very common type of accommodation on Öland, especially for families, offering more space and the convenience of a kitchen.

Having a cottage with a kitchen allowed us to cook breakfasts and some dinners, which was convenient with family and helped manage costs. It also provided a comfortable base to return to after a day of exploring the island.

We booked our cottage well in advance, which is crucial for securing good options and locations, particularly when traveling in peak season like July.

Despite visiting in July, which is typically the warmest month, the most memorable aspect of the weather during our trip was the wind. It was very windy for most of our stay!

Öland is known for being a windy island, and while we expected some wind being by the coast, we were perhaps surprised by its constant intensity. This is something new visitors should be aware of – even on a sunny day, the wind can make it feel cooler than the temperature suggests. This is why Öland is popular for wind- and kite surfing!

We had booked our cottage long in advance, so the wind didn't alter our plans for the trip, but it definitely impacted how we experienced some of the more exposed locations, like the beaches and the areas around the lighthouses. It also meant packing layers was essential, even in July.

During our 4 nights on the island, we focused on exploring key attractions by car. Here are the places we visited, along with other significant sites. We particularly enjoyed Borgholm the most as a town!

• Borgholms Slott (Borgholm Castle): We visited the impressive ruin of this former palace near the town of Borgholm. It's a dramatic and historically significant site with great views. Wandering around the ruins is fascinating. Entry was around 130 SEK for adults in 2024/2025. We found the town of Borgholm itself very appealing, with its harbor, restaurants, and lively atmosphere.
• Böda Sand beach: Located in the northern part of the island, this is a very long, wide sandy beach and part of a large resort area. It's incredibly popular in summer. We spent time here enjoying the sand and the coastal atmosphere, though the wind was noticeable!
• Långe Erik Lighthouse: Located at the northernmost tip of Öland, accessible via a causeway. Climbing the lighthouse (seasonal, small fee applies - check for 2025) offers panoramic views of the sea. The surrounding area is also beautiful for walking.
• Långe Jan Lighthouse: Situated at the southernmost tip of Öland, within the Ottenby nature reserve. It's Sweden's tallest lighthouse. Like Långe Erik, you can often climb it in summer (seasonal, fee applies - check for 2025). The Ottenby area is famous for birdwatching.
• Windmills: A characteristic sight across Öland, particularly in the southern half. We saw windmills everywhere we drove, adding a unique visual element to the landscape. You can often stop to photograph them.
• Driving the Island: Simply driving along Öland's roads, particularly the coastal routes, is part of the experience. We really appreciated the nice views while driving near the sea, passing windmills, farmland, and different types of coastal scenery.

Based on research and what we didn't get to on this trip, here are other key Öland attractions:

• Stora Alvaret: This vast limestone barren covers a large part of Southern Öland and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its unique geology supports rare plants and is great for walking and experiencing a landscape unlike anywhere else. Several accessible points and walking trails exist.
• Solliden Palace: The Swedish Royal Family's summer residence, located near Borgholm. The gardens are open to the public during summer (seasonal, entry fee ~140 SEK for adults in 2025) and are beautiful to stroll through.
• Eketorp Fort: A reconstructed Iron Age ring fort in Southern Öland. It offers a living history experience during the summer with activities and demonstrations. (Seasonal, entry fee ~125 SEK for adults in summer 2024, check 2025).
• Other Beaches: Beyond Böda Sand and Tofta (which we visited previously or is similar), Öland has numerous other beaches catering to different preferences (sandy, pebble, shallow, deep).
• Byrum's Raukar: Located on the northwest coast, these sea stacks are similar to Gotland's raukar but are also worth a visit if you're exploring that part of the island.

With our cottage kitchen, we prepared many meals. However, we also made sure to sample some local offerings and enjoy fika.

Local Food: Öland is known for its lamb and potatoes. Keep an eye out for dishes featuring these. "Kroppkakor" (potato dumplings, often filled with pork and onion) are a traditional dish in the Kalmar/Småland region and commonly found on Öland as well. They are hearty and usually served with lingonberry jam and butter.

Eating Out: Borgholm has the widest selection of restaurants. Along the coast and in villages, you'll find seasonal restaurants and cafés. Many places, especially near popular beaches or attractions, will have places for fika.

Our visit was in July, which is the absolute peak of the Swedish summer holiday season.

• July/August: Warmest weather, best for swimming and beaches. All attractions, restaurants, and shops are fully open. However, it is also the most crowded and most expensive time.
• June/September: Shoulder seasons offer milder weather, fewer crowds, and many attractions are still open, particularly in June and early September. June can be great for enjoying the start of summer and longer daylight. September can have beautiful autumn colors.
• May: May is notable for the unique flora blooming on Stora Alvaret, a special time for nature enthusiasts. Weather is cooler, and many seasonal businesses may not be open yet.

Based on our 4-night family trip in July, here's a general idea of costs. Öland is a popular summer destination, so prices reflect the high season demand.

• Transport: The biggest transport cost was the fuel for the long drive from Stockholm. The bridge crossing itself was free.
• Accommodation: Our Airbnb cottage cost was a significant factor, with July being the most expensive time for rentals. Cottage prices vary widely based on size, location, and amenities.
• Food: Self-catering helped manage costs, but grocery prices on Öland can be slightly higher than on the mainland. Eating out, especially for a family, added up, particularly in popular areas like Borgholm or near major beaches.
• Activities: Entry fees to places like Borgholm Castle, Solliden gardens, and Eketorp Fort (all around 100-150 SEK for adults) contributed to the budget. Visiting beaches, Stora Alvaret (walking), and driving the island are free.

A few things we learned during our Öland road trip:

• Book Accommodation Early: Crucial for July visits. Options sell out months in advance.
• Be Prepared for Wind: Pack layers, even for sunny summer days. A windproof jacket is highly recommended.
• Cashless: As is standard in Sweden, card payment is accepted almost everywhere. Cash is rarely needed.
• Language: Swedish is the main language, but English is widely understood in tourist areas and by people working in hospitality.
• Sun Protection: Even with the wind, the sun can be strong. Use sunscreen, especially when by the water or in exposed areas like Alvaret.
• Bring a Map (or use offline maps): While GPS works, having a physical map of the island can be helpful for getting a sense of the layout and finding smaller roads to coastal areas or through Alvaret.

Our trip included visiting Kalmar city on the way back to Stockholm. This is a very convenient option when traveling by car over the bridge.

Kalmar is a historical city with an impressive castle (Kalmar Slott) and a charming city center. Spending a few hours there before or after your Öland trip is highly recommended and breaks up the long drive nicely. The castle is the main attraction.

Öland itself is usually the main destination, rather than a base for extensive day trips back to the mainland, due to its size and the time it takes to explore. However, being connected by the bridge does offer flexibility.

We chose an Airbnb cottage for our 4-night family stay, which worked well for us.

Other popular areas to consider for accommodation on Öland include:

• Borgholm: The main town, offering the most services, restaurants, and shops. We really liked Borgholm and found it a lively and appealing base. It's convenient for exploring the northern and central parts of the island.
• Färjestaden: Closest town to the Öland Bridge, often has larger holiday resorts and is convenient for arrival/departure and accessing Southern Öland.
• Böda Sand Area: If your priority is access to the famous sandy beach and resort amenities, staying here (in cottages, camping, etc.) is ideal, though it's in the far north.
• Southern Öland (e.g., Mörbylånga, rural areas): Quieter than the north and Borgholm, ideal for exploring Stora Alvaret, Öland's southern history, and birdwatching. Offers a more tranquil experience.

Our July 2024 road trip to Öland was a memorable family adventure. The long drive was worth it to reach this unique island, accessible by bridge. We found that having a car was essential for exploring its length, from the northern lighthouse down to the southern tip and the Alvaret, and we particularly enjoyed the nice views while driving near the sea.

Öland offers a captivating blend of history (castles, forts), distinctive nature (Alvaret, raukar), and beautiful coastal areas. Borgholm was our favorite town, and the constant sight of windmills everywhere added to the island's unique character. While the wind was a constant companion during our July visit, it's part of the island's character and didn't stop us from enjoying the beaches and sights.

For new visitors to Sweden looking for a destination easily reachable by car from the mainland, offering diverse experiences from medieval ruins to unique natural landscapes, Öland is a fantastic choice. Just remember to pack a windproof jacket!

Ready to plan your Öland trip? Here are some helpful links:

• 🔗 Official Visitor Site for Öland
• 🔗 Official Visitor Site for Kalmar
• 🔗 Kalmar Länstrafik (Public Transport in Kalmar County/Öland)